Uganda: Following the Golden Monkeys Through the Mountain Forests of Virunga

March 8, 2026

Prekrasan-mužjak-Zlatnog-majmuna-na-visokim-bambusovim-drvećima-u-Nacionalnom-parku-Gorilla-Mgahinga

Photography: Pure Vision Journeys, Text: Mohammad Reza Amirinia

In southwestern Uganda, where misty hills descend toward volcanic lakes, begins a travel quest for creatures the world rarely sees. In this journey through the heart of the "Pearl of Africa," the author explores the wild beauty of bamboo forests, encounters local communities, and confronts the silence of the mountains while following the traces of one of the region's most elusive inhabitants—the golden monkey.

After a 12-hour flight from London, I landed in Entebbe, a town situated on the shores of the magnificent Lake Victoria.

This tranquil destination, with its tropical rainforest climate, is an ideal starting point for exploring Uganda.

At Entebbe Forest Lodge, I found a peaceful oasis, perfect for rest before embarking on my search for the country’s most elusive inhabitants: golden monkeys and mountain gorillas.

I headed southwest to Lake Chahafi Resort, near the border town of Kisoro. The journey is long, nearly 500 kilometers, but the landscape is so captivating that distance becomes secondary. The A109 road leads toward highlands dominated by terraced crops, misty hills, and breathtaking panoramas. Along the way, I stopped in the Kigezi highlands, enjoyed the tranquility of Lake Bunyonyi, and took in views of the spectacular Virunga volcanoes.

About 72 kilometers from Kampala, I stopped in Kayabwe—the point where the equator crosses Uganda. Standing with one foot in the northern hemisphere and the other in the southern is a symbolic experience for any traveler.

I broke my journey with a stay at Mihingo Lodge, near Lake Mburo National Park. Perched on a rocky hill, this eco-lodge offered me the opportunity to explore the wilderness on foot, by bicycle, or on horseback—an experience that connected me with nature in an intimate way.

The final stretch to Lake Chahafi Resort was short but rough. The road from Kanaba junction passes through villages with mud houses, farmers in the fields, and cheerful children waving to travelers. I arrived in the late evening hours, where I was greeted by warm staff and a comfortable tented room with views of the Virunga mountain range. The resort offers eight boutique units and five new family cottages, all with panoramic views of farms and forested hills. The restaurant offers a carefully curated menu with local and international flavors.

Sela u okolici odmarališta Lake Chahafi Resort

At six in the morning, I set off for Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, where one of the most special experiences of this journey awaited me—the search for golden monkeys. After an hour’s drive along winding rural roads, we arrived at the Visitor Center in Ntebeko.

Before the official briefing, we attended a performance by the Batwa people—the indigenous guardians of the forest. These native hunter-gatherers once lived within the park’s boundaries and still maintain a deep spiritual connection with this land.

The guide explained the rules of conduct and safety, and my entry permit had already been arranged by the resort. I also hired a porter—a decision I soon gratefully accepted. Equipped with a walking stick, I began the ascent into the dense bamboo forests on the slopes of the Virunga volcanoes.

The trail led us through humid forest, where birdsong and the hum of insects mingled with footsteps on leaves. Occasionally, a rustle would sound in the branches—a sign of the forest’s invisible inhabitants. Although the park is home to more than 39 species of mammals, including buffalo, elephants, and antelopes, we were focused on just one—the golden monkeys.

The park protects three volcanic mountains: Muhavura (4,127 m), Gahinga, and Sabyinyo. Our guide warned us that we could reach an altitude of 2,600 meters. The terrain conditions were challenging. At a clearing with a simple hut, we paused for a brief rest—still without monkeys. The porter helped me on the steepest sections and was an invaluable companion.

Pogled na planine Virunga iz Nacionalnog parka Mgahinga

At a viewpoint at 2,300 meters, the entire Virunga range opened up before us. The guide gave a signal—we were close. Soon, a whistle confirmed it—we had arrived.

Above us, among the branches, outlines of golden fur appeared. They were quick, playful, and wondrous. Capturing them on camera was a challenge—they stayed high in the canopy, leaping from branch to branch. I used a 70–200mm lens to capture their movements and shimmering fur, a blend of fire and gold, streaked with black and white hues. The guide explained that females have lighter fur.

We had exactly one hour for observation. I watched them, enchanted, as they played and disappeared among the foliage. Some visitors were lucky enough to find them playing on the ground—it all depends on the day. Our hour passed in an instant. The descent was faster but no less exhausting. Every step was difficult, but the feeling that remained was worth every effort.

The next morning, I embarked on a new adventure—the search for the legendary mountain gorillas. But the experience with the golden monkeys had already left a deep impression. This was not merely a journey through landscape—but a journey into the soul of the forest, alive with secrets, whispers, and wild beauty.